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Opinion

Androgynous Youth.
January 08, 2012
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The Time of your Life? Not so, apparently.

At present, we have the world at our fingertips. We can buy our groceries online. We can search for that annoying actor’s name we just can’t remember within minutes on IMDb. We can even extract that horrifyingly embarrassing photo of our best friend, just in time for their big 2-1. So why are a significant minority choosing to shy away from the generation where anything is possible?

Of course, we are referring to Facebook Timeline here. After a whole lot of um-ing and ahh-ing (not very Generation Z, eh Zuckerberg?) the latest craze to hit the web has arrived. Highlighted as a ‘rare win’ for the social media giant by The Guardian, and heralding little in the way of criticism (apart from the usual drivel-dravel over security) it would be easy to assume that the eager mass of Facebookers switched obediently over to the new profile, right? Wrong.

As an avid Facebooker (yes, I am one of those types) I have watched as pockets of resistance have crept up against Timeline – infact an, air of tentativeness appears evident.

When asked precisely that, reasons varied from “I just don’t want to, okay!” to “I can’t be bothered with the hassle.” However, after a little digging around, a pattern seemed to be emerging. It seems, the generation who have it all are terrified.

Illustrator, Frances Szweda, is terrified of being made into a brand – with the pressure of “having some kind of clever, artsy, all-encompassing cover photo” evoking a light panic usually only associated with working the bar at John Lewis Oxford Street’s Food Hall.

Interior and Spatial Design student, Lowela Villanueva, is terrified of the uproar having Facebook Timeline might cause. “Facebook is bad enough for scandal,” she notes, “but Timeline has just made it a whole lot easier for your boyfriend to discover that sneaky little comment you made back in 2006.”

At a time where teenagers are often misrepresented by the media, as either ASBO idiots or, more relevantly, technology geeks, it is certainly interesting that more and more Generation Z cohorts are striking out against the fast-growing influence of the World Wide Web. Ironically enough, it is perhaps thanks to the omnipotent presence of interactive media, that such individuals are knowledgeable of the drawbacks of trends such as Timeline. Certainly, Central Saint Martins graduate, Oli Collins, agrees. “Having Facebook for so long has definitely made me more aware of where my personal information – photos and the like – may end up.”

However, what really strikes a chord in regards to the building resistance against Timeline, is the quietly ferocious refusal to allow the internet to control every last thing we, as human beings, do. Perhaps a result of recent (and notably popular) satires such as Charlie Brooker’s Black Mirror, people are becoming increasingly aware of the internet’s part to play in the dehumanization of our beings. In a study conducted into the impact of the internet on our daily lives, Thompson Rivers University graduate, Tanja Vognin, asserts that children are very competent experts when it comes to using social media websites such as Facebook Timeline, however are no longer able to survive in the ‘real’ world. This echoes the sense of fear felt by individuals in and around London, and is certainly no surprise to those interviewed.

Whilst Facebook Timeline undoubtedly has its strong points – it looks pretty, and can be a fun way of interacting with your friends – many feel that the social media giant has gone a step too far. As one university student put it: “How long will it be before we become devoid of even speaking to each other? We will live our lives in Brooker’s game show soon enough.”

Hit the nail right on the (computerized) head, I reckon.

November 22, 2011
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Fashion in British politics: Should our cabinet take pride in their appearance?

In light of Mary Portas’ wish to ‘restyle’ the women of the Conservative cabinet, AY investigates the fashion industry’s place in politics, and whether British MPs should take a leaf out of France’s (sartorial) book…

Mary Portas is a clever woman. Hot on the heels of a new line for House of Fraser, and another one of those (frankly genius) television shows about the woeful shops/people of Britain, Portas [more likely, her PR machine] made a conscious decision to slate the women in the cabinet. Cue: tabloids of Britain rushing to the defence of said women in cabinet.

Alas! Despite an obvious plea, on Portas’ part, for column inches – and henceforth a rise in viewing figures/more consumers buying her things from House of Fraser (you get the idea) – the sharp-haired woman raised a very good point. Why do British MPs fail to showcase even an inkling of thought into their daily, sartorial choices?

One only has to look at the French to prove one’s point. Certainly Edward Vaizey, Minister for Culture, Communications and Creative Industries, agrees. “Apart from France, I can’t think of any nation where politicians are prepared to admit they take how they look seriously.” Perhaps this mocking, of what The Independent’s Christina Patterson refers to as ‘the industry that makes us always want more,’ is a sign of the very British tendency to shy away from attention? “British politicians should stop being embarrassed about fashion,” Vaizey adds, nonplussed. Whether these women like it or not, the fusion of popular culture into politics is symbolic of our informational culture. Anyone who isn’t Dave from around the corner is, metaphorically speaking, bait for the hungry shark that is the Public Domain. Take for example Kate Middleton. Member of Parliament she ain’t, but credible example she most definitely is. A 175-pound dress donned by the Duchess of Cambridge when meeting Barrack Obama sold out in minutes.

This brings me neatly onto my next point. No matter how much the (notoriously unfashionable) Theresa May’s and the (again, notoriously unfashionable) Chloe Smith’s of the political world choose to ignore it – British Fashion contributes massively to the economy. As part of an extensive report into the Value of Fashion, the British Fashion Council pinpointed fashion as contributing a staggering £21bil directly to the UK economy, with a further £16bil contributing on an indirect basis via the encouragement of spending in other industries. Although just one of the many ways in which the fashion industry generates vital revenue, every Kate Middleton ‘Obama’ dress sold, effectively, contributes to Governmental revenue. In fact, the British Fashion Council found that the fashion industry contributes a hefty 2.6% to the total of Government revenues – which ultimately fund essential public services.

So why are the women in the British cabinet – as Portas so kindly put it – so ‘ugly’ and devoid of any sense of fashion?

Stylist columnist, Lucy Mangan, argues that there is a fine balance between looking trustworthy and allowing fashion to take over the sole purpose of these women’s public existence – to do one’s job. When asked whether she thought fashion had a place in politics, Mangan’s reply compared fashion as being “about as relevant as a politician being judged on their ability to swim.” Whilst I undoubtedly agree, to an extent, that the label of one’s dress should seldom overshadow the work of the woman who is wearing it, I do believe that fashion is being overlooked by out-of-date opinions of frivolity. As so rightly pointed out by The Economist, the fashion industry is so much more important than the ‘frothing over foxy frocks made of recycled metal scraps.’ Unfortunately, the fashion industry is unfairly misjudged by those taking such a diverse collection of industries – spanning beauty, retail and corporate business – at face value. Politicians (both male and female) and even their wives are expected to promote allegiance through their choice of dress. Samantha Cameron (wife of current Prime Minister, David Cameron) as ambassador for the British Fashion Council is expected to wear British labels on a consistent basis. Politicians (male, respectively) are constantly taking off their suit jackets and rolling up their sleeves when addressing blue collar workers – a signifier in today’s culture of sincerity and straight talk. In essence, a Member of Parliament’s choice of clothing can actually further their role and their intentions. It’s the same as when one consciously wears hosiery to work. Society dictates that bare legs are inappropriate, so opaque tights are used to adhere to what is acceptable. It doesn’t necessarily simply boil down to spending precious time away from the cabinet to make one’s hair look pretty.

I’m not saying the women of the cabinet should suddenly up sticks, and purchase the S/S ’12 Christopher Kane collection in its entirety – one simply believes that politicians should stop seeing fashion as a façade, and start seeing it as a clever little tool for British diplomacy.

 

December 18, 2010
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Masquerade Ball.

 

 

December 18, 2010
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A Vintage Treasure-Trove... Step Forward ASOS Marketplace!

'Welcome to the Fashion Democracy...'

I genuinely cannot remember the last time I got so excited over a new fashion concept. Like Play.com for your wardrobe, ASOS Marketplace has left me wondering why no other large chain-online brand has thought of such a fantastic idea before! Whether you're looking to discover a one-off vintage evening gown or to sell your 'too-small' cast-offs, ASOS Marketplace is definitely where it's at...

The brainchild of those kind folk over at ASOS.com, Marketplace is an exciting, new way to share your love of fashion with a whole host of other fashionistas out there. With hundreds of 'boutiques' for both men and women, you're sure to find something special and, when you have, buying couldn't be easier. Just like any other shopping destination, you simply add to your basket and away you go!

My first venture on over to the bustling, virtual-market left me with the fashion shakes - I spotted a studded Burberry beauty (best start saving) as well as an array of blouses, tea dresses, 80s clutches and heels to-die-for. Marketplace really does cater for your every need with a section - albeit small, but inevitably waiting to grow - dedicated to ethical fashion. Great for all of you eco-friendly shoppers, London-based ethical boutique 'I CAN Make Shoes' is well-worth a visit if you're looking for completely original but still kind-to-the-earth shoes. I CAN Make Shoes give a new lease of life to previously written-off shoes; making for a unique treat for your feet. A personal favourite of mine are the pom pom adorned purple courts - very Park Avenue Princess!

If bags are more your cup of tea, fear not! ASOS Marketplace has a multitude of styles, just screaming out for a little TLC. High-end shoppers will be delighted with the rare designer finds, including THE Alexander Wang 'Rocco' bag. Bargain-seekers will be equally as pleased with prices starting from an as little as a fiver! From classic day totes to glamorous velvet clutches, finding the perfect bag for you couldn't be simpler. When purchasing high-priced items do be careful; although Marketplace has a strict policy on counterfeit goods, it is a good idea to check out the T&Cs as well as the 'Fashion Not Fakes' section of the website.

If you're looking to sell, ASOS Marketplace is a great way to get started. Bringing a whole new dimension to the term 'recessionista,' anyone strapped for cash can easily sell their worn and loved goods - as long as they're in an acceptable condition. It isn't just us mere mortals getting involved with this great initiative either - fresh, young design-talent are seizing the opportunity to get their brand out there; and with creativity and individuality at the utmost of ASOS' intentions, it would be a crime not to put your own stamp on your own online boutique. Designers such as Mark Fast (who created a sell-out collection for Topshop) have been quick to snap up their market 'stall' and why not? ASOS Marketplace isn't your average, scary Apprentice-type pitch for Selfridges. A sense of community runs throughout, with an emphasis placed upon being courteous to other sellers.

So yeah... why are you still here? Get yourself on down to www.marketplace.asos.com NOW! Your wardrobe will thank you for it (and maybe even your bank balance.)

ANDROGYNOUS YOUTH

 


November 05, 2010
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How To Do Roaring Twenties...

Put on your dancing shoes... the roaring twenties is back! No doubt a chronological step forward from the wine stained lips of the A/W 10 preview collections; the Christmas party scene is all about old-school glamour. Back in the roaring twenties era, fashion was about breaking the rules: smoking provocatively, long cigarette stick in hand; applying lavish make-up in public areas and watching long, glistening hair as it fell to the floor of the local salon. Initially reserved for the high classes in society, the emergence of flapper-style patterns meant that twenties fashion soon became accessible for all. Nowadays a range of high street stores (from basic Primark to high-end Reiss) coupled with an ever-growing vintage industry has meant that you, equally, can do glamorous flapper girl- no matter what your budget.

So how can I do modern-day twenties?

The Wardrobe

One of the most common misconceptions of the 1920s is that the flapper girl image was the sole look of said era. Infact, the flapper girl look only became popular around the mid-twenties and there was a vast array of styles ready to be experimented with. The end of the first world war brought a mannish edge to women's fashion and severe lines sat alongside flowing drop-waist dresses. Think Alexa Chung donning a mannish Phillip Lim tuxedo amongst an endless sea of gowns at the 2010 Met Ball. 1920s tailoring translates to modern-day fashions via the influx of narrow trousers- be it a peg leg; carrot or straight-leg ensemble. Check out Topshop, ASOS and Gap for your pick of the best styles and update for the party season with skyscraper heels; swishy top and beaded clutch.

If you're looking to emulate the Charleston girls, be open-minded when choosing your dress length. The twenties are famous for short hemlines, however, modern-day twenties features mid-length or longer drop-waist dresses. Check out ASOS for the biggest selection of styles out there. Dresses don't necessarily have to be fringed either... anything with a drop waist or emulating that 'old-school glamour' look is perfect. Look out for heavy embellishment; feathers and luxe fabrics- Kate Moss' latest drop for Topshop is perfect! Team with pearls, a box clutch and mary-janes for a really authentic look.

ASOS.com
Green Fringing bought from Fenwick; Gold Dress by H&M; 'Wine Not'' Matte Lipstick by Revlon

The Make-Up

Enough with the bare faces of the catwalks, I say! As Cheryl Cole would put it: it's time to get glam. The Christmas party season is the perfect time to go all out with your make-up and with these top tips, you're guaranteed to look hot.

1920s-style skin needs to be flawless and shine-free so the use of a mattifying base is advised. If you have oily skin, try to additionally set your make-up with translucent powder. When applying base, build up in thin layers- that way you won't look caked. Start from the centre of the face and blend outwards with a foundation brush to really get into the nooks and crannies; especially around your nose where pores can often look blocked or maximised. AVON sell a great range of brushes and their foundation brush is a god-send as well as being inexpensive compared with luxury brands such as Bobbi Brown. To maintain a shine-free base, a cream-to-powder or mousse foundation is most recommended.

Once you're confident you have achieved an undetectably flawless base, start work on your eyes. Although the roaring twenties was all about dark, heavy-set eyes combined with wine stained lips, the eyes should be more muted in order to keep the look bang up-to-date for twenty ten. Use a smoky grey to blend into the outer socket of your eye but make sure you feather it out and correct any mistakes with concealer. Next, apply a shimmering gold to the very inner corners of your eyes and blend out into the smoky grey. Contour with highlighter below the brow bone and through to the cheekbone before filling in your eyebrows and finishing with the blackest of mascaras to really set off the eyes. The addition of highlighter and the gold tones of the inner corners will set off the embellishment of your dress or juxtapose the heavy tailoring of your trousers as well as softening the overall effect of the smoky eye.

Any remaining foundation on your fingers or brush can be used to block out your natural lip colour, ready for the application of lipstick. Try to select a matte formula and consult your local beauty counter assistant to really find a lipstick to suit. As a general consensus: the darker your skin; the more dramatic you can get away with. Stick to wine-coloured or deep red colours to fit in with the glamorous theme and always draw around your natural lip-line with closely-matched lip-liner before filling in the lip with your lipstick. For a really dramatic look apply straight from the bullet. If you're heavy-handed invest in a lip brush to apply the colour with- much more precise! If you make any mistakes, pat on some concealer, being careful not to ruin the precise line of the lip colour. To really up your fashion credentials, try smudging the lipstick with your finger to create more of a 'stained' look, as seen at Giles Deacon.

Make-Up from a selection by No. 7; Revlon; Max Factor and Maybelline

The Accessories

With such dramatic attire and make-up, it's best to keep your accessories relatively low key. If you're going for the more severe look of the twenties however feel free to accessorise with an embellished, over-sized clutch. Look to American beauties such as Olivia Palermo and Gossip Girl stars Leighton Meester and Blake Lively for inspiration. Pick out a minute box-clutch to pair with your embellished or flapper style dress to compliment the vintage-esque look and always accessorise with heels. T-bar or mary-jane style shoes will look genuine; choose a muted colour to avoid over kill.

ANDROGYNOUS YOUTH


 

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